It's been Sarah Burton's third collection for Alexander McQueen, after the king decided to leave the building. It's been the third nice, feminine, unsurprising collection. I'm slightly giving up my unconditional love for Alexander McQueen. Don't get me wrong, Sarah is doing just fine, all these collections are beautiful and each part of them is nearly a masterpiece in sewing, but it isn't Alexander McQueen anymore. There's no darkness and apocalypse anymore. Everything became too mild and a little bit too predictable. There's no brilliant madness here anymore.
“It’s all about Gaia, the wonder of nature, the sea.” said Sarah Burton about the spring/summer collection 2012. Sure, why not, the "Plato's Atlantis", the last spring 2010 show of Alexander McQueen was about the sea, too. There were all kinds of sea creatures there, but there weren't any mermaids. Who cares about the mermaids? I'm asking, where are the skulls? Where are the demons which were hiding in the depths of the McQueen sea? The sun doesn't shine at the seabed.
It would be unfair to say that all of Sarah's designs are equally boring. Sure thing. This collection has a few truly beautiful pieces. In some of them, you can still hear the echoes of Alexander's creatures. Like those black demonic dresses which twine around the models bodies. And the ones made of sharp mother-of-pearls pieces or corals which remind of the early McQueen's designs, where models were risking their lives wearing his dresses. Masks are surely in the good-old festish style, too. But Sarah is systematically changing the direction in which Alexander headed. I'm guessing that after a few more shows, the kingdom of mother Gaia will entirely overthrow the McQueen kingdom. Sorry, but you won't be my queen. I'd rather hold on to the past, with my beloved demons.
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